One Day in Ancona, the Dorian City

StefanoBudget travel, Europe, Italy Comments

One Day in Ancona

Ancona is the regional capital of Marche – the only Italian region with a plural acceptation. It develops on a sort of bulge budding from the Italian Adriatic coast, and from the top of the city you can enjoy the see at both sides. If you are planning to spend one day in Ancona, you are in the right place! It will be a very budget journey.

I’ve been hosted by a friend – visit him was the main reason for my stop here (Hi campione!). In addition, I discovered with a local a very beautiful city! Unfortunately, the weather was awful. But at least we had no rain.

One day in Ancona should be enough. However, you might want to take more time and visit the surroundings, because there are many stunning places close by – I’m talking about the Riviera del Conero.

Start your day with a promenade along the Viale della Vittoria, and walk all the way down to the seafront. The majestic War Memorial (monumento ai caduti) is just in front of you. Go down the stairs and you will be in the Passetto, the most central beach in town which also gives the name to the neighborhood. One of the main spots of the city is represented by the Passetto’s caves, which are storage facilities for fishing boats. During summer, people use them as a place where to meet and spend time together, enjoying the view of the Adriatic Sea.

The Passetto's caves

The Passetto’s caves

Go up again and walk (a bit uphill, but nothing impossible) to the Cardeto Park, the highest point in the city. There are a bunch of walks you can take, and occasionally some Nordic walking events through the park are organized. I can guess the view when it’s sunny is amazing, but the view was still worth despite the clouds.

From the park, you can easily reach the lighthouse. There are actually three of them, and I’m not sure any is working. From here you can also see the Jewish cemetery which was bombed during the WWII. You can still notice some bomb craters and a couple of roofless houses which have been abandoned.

On the way to the lighthouse

On the way to the lighthouse

Getting hungry, ah? I found a place right in the city center which sells food on the go. It’s in Via Mazzini, is not advertised anywhere and it serves mouth-watering filled dumplings (polpette ripiene), small omelets in cones and other local specialties! It’s a must try. Just beside there is a kiosk serving fresh seafood (looking good, but we didn’t try).

If you want something more, order a puccia at Poldo. The puccia is a round loaf made of white flour, and it is filled with typical cold cuts and sauces. Of course, you can get the international version with fries and sausages. The ‘Tartufata’ and ‘Messicana’ are good if you like truffle or spicy, respectively. Both are quite good. You have my word! It’s better to have one of them for dinner (take note) as probably you won’t be able to walk after that – they are as good as heavy to digest.

After lunch, let’s take a look to the ancient Ancona, once inhabited by Romans. Start paying a visit to the Roman Amphitheatre. Now walk towards the harbor, and on the right, you should find a little boardwalk that goes through the remains of the ancient Roman port. As you will see – if the things have not changed – the area is sadly left to its own devices. There are just a few info panels, and that’s it.

You’ll now see in front of you the Arch of Trajan. You can walk for a trait on the fortification wall.

Finish the day enjoying the sun (or the wind!) on the pier. If you want to have an aperitivo, go a few hundreds meters backward and find the Bar del Porto. Directly suggested by locals, you won’t find a trashier place than this – it’s really cheap and fun.

If you are planning to spend more than one day in Ancona, here are a few things you might want to check out:

  • Mole Vanvitelliana
  • Fontana del Calamo
  • Archeological National Museum
  • Saint Mary Church

And if you are thinking about a day trip out of the city, here are some ideas:

  • Sirolo
  • Riviera del Conero (extremely suggested if you have a car. It’s also feasible by bus)
  • Loreto
  • Recanati, the hometown of one of the Italian most famous poets Leopardi.
  • Numana

Forget Milan – go to Ancona!



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One Day in Ancona, the Dorian City

One Day in Ancona, the Dorian City